Kyoto, Japan - April 12th

I have wanted to see Kyoto since reading the classic historical fiction book Musashi by Eiji Yoshikawa, which captures and romanticizes the Samurai Shogun period just as Gone with the Wind does the Old South. Wielding his famous double-edged sword like a 46 oz. bat, Musashi was the Babe Ruth of Samurai Warriors.

Musashi travelled to Shinto shrines to become a pure-in-spirt Samurai and to learn sword fighting. Many priests were great swordsmen in those days, not so much now. Our Associate Pastor Jason would have made a great priest-warrior back in the day.

We followed Musashi’s footsteps to the Fushimi Inari Shrine, founded in 790. It has more than 30,000 sub-shrines across Japan. The Emperor visits for Japanese New Year and for the Spring Solstice. Three million people come for New Year’s Weekend, which is OK because the shrine covers 230 acres including a small mountaintop.

Shinto entrances to sacred places are marked with a vermillion gate called a Torii, literally “bird perch.” Vermillion is a sacred color. This is the “Shrine of 1000 Torii” that arc over the sacred paths up to the mountain top.

Above, Joani is mounting the Temple steps with Drew and Tanya. The fox is a sacred animal at this shrine.

You can make a small donation, buy a small Torii, and write a wish or prayer. Shinto is ecumenical; for people of all religions to visit and offer a prayer or blessing is quite normal. 70% of Japanese practice both Shinto and Buddhism.

Next stop was Nijō Castle, home of the Tokugawa Shoguns who ruled Japan from 1603 to 1867. Musashi became a Samurai during the rule of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first Shogun. Above, Joani is standing at the main entrance gate, where Samurai entered for their audiences with the Shogun.

Here is the Shogun’s residence; with Joani, Drew and our guide Hiroe standing in front. 

The Palace Gardens 

Joani and Tanya by a blooming cherry tree on the Palace Grounds 

Then we walked through the Kyoto Market, a large pedestrian shopping area in downtown Kyoto, even though Musashi never bought anything there. We found a shop that sold authentic replica Samurai Swords that my nephews Mike and Sean (and Jason) would have loved.

Finally, above, we walked through Old Kyoto, also known as the Geisha District, where the houses are 400 years old and the streets very narrow. Musashi visited here because to become a great Samurai he had to learn to properly serve others. He learned this from Geishas, who are trained in the fine arts of entertaining with dance and song; in proper manners and courtesy; and in properly making and serving a meal, including the all-important Green Tea Ceremony. Musashi had a lot trouble getting the Tea Ceremony right.

Tanya walking down a street in the Geisha district 

Joani in front of 400 year-old wooden houses 

Outside a Geisha residence, signified by the ebony sign. Five Geishas live here, signified by their individual blond wood signs. That means they are registered with the city of Kyoto, having completed five year apprenticeships, usually between the ages of 15 and 20. Other Japanese cities have Geishas, but Kyoto is known for having the most rigorous and proper training.

An upper floor Geisha party house. You would book a Geisha house for a special evening of entertainment and dinner for a small group – four to six people. It could be couples or it could be a small group of men or women. You would be entertained by Geishas singing and dancing, and you would be served the Green Tea Ceremony followed by an intimate dinner, all done with impeccable courtesy and good taste. You would need a reference to make a reservation.

So, after a great day, Joani & I and Drew & Tanya took the Shin-Ken-Sen bullet train back to the ship docked in Kobe. It took us 30 minutes; those who took the bus on the ship’s tour needed 1 1/2 hours.

Next: Naha, Okinawa